Meet Lerato Umah-Shaylor

She was an economist and journalist before professional chef…

“I studied economics at university in London, and always thought I’d work in development – helping countries grow out of economic, political and social malaise. This is still a great passion of mine, but somewhere along the way I become disillusioned with international organisations’ administrative processes, and slowly fell into the world of cookery. 

I’ve worked as a journalist and newspaper editor, a TV presenter and producer, creating my own cookery show in Nigeria and presenting breakfast television. My first dive into the professional food world was as a columnist in a magazine. I couldn’t believe I could write about food and get paid for it.” 

We already eat more African food than we realise…

“Africa as a continent is responsible for producing a lot of food enjoyed all over the world. Just look at the source of your ginger, squash, cocoa, teas, coffee, sesame/ tahini and many more ingredients we rely upon. 

I want to inspire cooks to look to Africa for culinary enrichment. We’re not as far removed as we think. And what better way to connect with people, than through food?”

The taste of hibiscus takes Lerato right back to her childhood…

“Hibiscus is one of my favourite flavours, which I discovered as a child when I lived in the Republic of Benin. 

After school, we’d rush outside to meet the women selling a refreshing brew of tangy iced hibiscus with fiery ginger, locally called bisaap or bissap. With a bucket-load each wrapped in cellophane and tucked on top of wrappers, expertly folded on their heads to ensure balance. To this day I don’t know how they balance such weight so gracefully. 

I write extensively about hibiscus in Africana, and have since developed many recipes – from hibiscus syrup used in cocktails, to salad dressings, and marinades for lamb and fish.” 

She’s a child of the coast… 

“My paternal ancestry is from Akwa Ibom state in southern Nigeria; one of the most beautiful regions and a popular tourist destination. So perhaps it’s in my DNA to love being by the water. I also grew up in Lagos, which is practically an island with various other islands within.

It’s no surprise now that I live on the English coast, and I’m most at ease spending time by the water – whether in France or Ghana!”

She loves fish – but has a love-hate relationship with mackerel…

“I love the ease that comes with cooking fresh fish. Although it can take on massive flavour and spices, when you come by good fish, you don’t have to do much to enjoy it. 

In West Africa, one of the most popular fish is tilapia, which is firm and flaky, with a mild flavour. It’s typically cooked with lots of chillies. From British waters, I love meaty monkfish – especially for fritters and in curries – and hake, a sweet and more assertive taste than the popular cod. 

After being fed a lot of mackerel as a child, I now have a love-hate relationship with it – but when smoked, it does wonders to soups and stews.”

She has too many favourite recipes to name…

“Africana contains over 100 of my favourite recipes from across Africa, many traditional, some inspired, and others inventive. I have many favourites for different reasons. 

Egusi reminds me of my mother; my three variations of Senegalese Yassa – a dish with caramelised onion, Dijon and citrus that is pure sunshine on a plate; plantain and prawn cakes, because I remember how excited I was when I first tested the recipe and couldn’t believe just how delicious it was; my smoky jollof that surprises me every time I cook it, it’s so rich in flavour, and I especially love it because I’ve taught jollof to thousands of people, and know the many pitfalls and reservations cooks have with it. 

I’m really excited about people trying the fragrant fish in banana leaves, a spice blend of ginger and makrut lime leaves. The sticky apricot ‘Malva’ pudding is seriously indulgent, and a true taste of South Africa. The Berber buns stuffed with aromatic lamb and spices… I could go on and on!”